So By Sophie On Flowvella

You'll have heard the pre-broadcast buzz about Sophie Dahl's new cookery show – she is, apparently, the new Nigella. And yes, there are (some slightly ridiculous) moments in tonight's BBC2 programme involving finger-licking and camera-simpering, both women are extremely attractive, both are posh, and both are interested in eating, as well as chopping and sauteeing. But given the preview clip for The Delicious Miss Dahl – – I'd expected the programme to be unwatchable. Much as I love Nigella, and I'm not sure I could have coped with a parody of a parody.

Instead, while I'm still undecided as to whether Dahl is totally charming or madly irritating, I'm pretty sure that the marketing hasn't totally done her justice. (Perhaps the midnight fridge-raid, clothed in a satin robe, happens in a later episode). The Nigella comparisons will have done their job: many more people will watch Dahl this evening than would have done otherwise. But they have also made clear that television bosses seem to be rapidly running out of formats – or formats that they think we want to watch, in any case.

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The BBC's recent was so lovely because Delia is practically beyond format – look, for instance, at what happened when she strayed away from her usual path. But now every food programme seems to be trying to be another food programme. So for home cooks there's – the original. And there's also: Restaurant in Your Living Room, Michael Winner's Dining Stars; Instant Restaurant. Here are people cooking in their kitchens and getting everything wrong! It was only funny the first time– we don't need four different editions of it.

Yesterday brought a press release from ITV about Marco's Kitchen Burnout - 'TV's toughest celebrity cooking challenge yet'. In which 12 celebrities and Marco Pierre White cook for real diners. Sound familiar? Apparently the difference is that the celebrities will be cooking on their own – and will 'cast teamwork aside in favour of cutthroat competition, strategy and talent'.

Yes, teamwork. You might not have noticed a great deal of it in Hell's Kitchen – I didn't either. And that's before we even begin to talk about the all-conquering multi-format format that is Masterchef. What with the amateurs, the pros, the celebrities, and soon the juniors, it practically needs its own channel.

But in among all this jostling to be the new whatever's fashionable this week, BBC4 has been quietly running a marvellous season about food. After The Delicious Miss Dahl has finished being poetic on BBC2 this evening, Bill Buford's Fat Man in a White Hat has its second - and sadly final - episode on BBC4.

Admittedly, the title isn't quite so sexy, but the first installment of Buford's tale of moving his life and his family to France and training as a chef was really enchanting. And, most importantly, not a copy of anything else. In fact, this BBC4 Exquisite Cuisine season has been an absolute treat: tomorrow night there's a documentary about bread from the Time Shift strand that looks worth catching. So great food TV doesn't need to be an homage to other food programmes or chefs, or even be presented as one. (Not that the problem is restricted to food programmes, as those who caught Channel 4's Restoration Man on Sunday night – Restoration meets Grand Designs with very little shame – will know only too well).

Viewers don't need 'the new' anyone; we're more than capable of making our own minds up, thank you.

Katie Brenner has the perfect life: a flat in London, a glamorous job, and a super-cool Instagram feed. OK, so the truth is that she rents a tiny room with no space for a wardrobe, has a hideous commute to a lowly admin job, and the life she shares on Instagram isn't really hers. But one day her dreams are bound to come true, aren't they? Until her not-so-perfect life comes crashing down when her mega-successful boss Demeter gives her the sack. All Katie's hopes are shattered.

She has to move home to Somerset, where she helps her dad with his new glamping business. Then Demeter and her family book in for a holiday, and Katie sees her chance. But should she get revenge on the woman who ruined her dreams - or try to get her job back? Does Demeter - the woman who has everything - actually have such an idyllic life herself? Maybe they have more in common than it seems.

And what's wrong with not-so-perfect, anyway? Everybody loves Sophie Kinsella: 'I almost cried with laughter' Daily Mail 'Hilarious. You'll laugh and gasp on every page' Jenny Colgan 'Properly mood-altering. Funny, fast and farcical. I loved it' Jojo Moyes 'A superb tale.

'Sophie Kinsella keeps her finger on the cultural pulse, while leaving me giddy with laughter. Jojo Moyes. 'Life doesn't get much better than a free Sunday afternoon, some chocolate and stem ginger biccies and a new Sophie Kinsella novel and this standalone looks at what really goes on behind our perfect social media feeds'. Sarra Manning, Red magazine.

'What an absolute treat - sheer joy from start to finish.' . Lucy Diamond.

'Pesky boss, sexy man and plenty of laughs, and you've got rom-com excellence. This will be huge in 2017.' . Heat. 'Sure to make you laugh out loud. This book can't fail to lift your mood.'